TR6, GT6 OR SPITFIRE
RE-ENGINEERED SADDLE BAR/SEALING BLOCK

IF YOU HAVE AN OIL LEAK IN THE FRONT OF YOUR TR6, GT6 OR SPITFIRE ENGINE, IT MAY BE BECAUSE OF STRIPPED THREADS IN THE SEALING BLOCK/SADDLE BAR. IN THE PICTURE BELOW IS MY RE-ENGINEERED SADDLE BAR/SEALING BLOCK MADE FROM HIGH STRENGTH STEEL. THIS PART ENABLES YOU TO TORQUE THE BOLTS TO THE PROPER SETTING W/ PLENTY OF MARGIN IF YOU OVER-DO IT.
If your going to be changing out your main bearing and or rod bearings its the perfect time to upgrade this part.

For more information please email Goldblma@optonline.net. or view my Ebay listing here
For all sales outside of the US please email me for shipping costs.

This is a original TR6 saddle bar and something that I had to replace in my engine rebuild. Look at the right hole that intersects w/ the counterbore, there are supposed to be threads there. This part has not been remanufactured so I got another used one. It too had bad threads and was useless. The oil pan bolts to one face and the timing cover bolts to the other. The problem is with the face that the timing cover bolts to; where the two threaded holes intersect the counterbored holes.

There are two gaskets between the timing cover and the engine block, so it's necessary to be able to torque these bolts seal these gaskets. The metal that the original part is cast out of is very weak and the bolts for these holes are shorter and only engage a few threads. Therefore, when you try to tighten these bolts to compress that pair of gaskets, the threads become stripped w/o sealing the gaskets. This part can't be fixed w/ a helicoil because there isn't enough meat at the bottom and it cant be welded.

Being a Mechanical engineer and having access to precision measuring equipment and a machine shop, I recreated this part out of Steel. The location of the holes cant change, so the only that can be done to improve this part is to use a stronger material. The part is CNC machined for accuracy and repeatability, and steel gives the strength needed. It fits better than the original and it also has the "small" advantage of being able to tighten the bolts enough to seal the oil gaskets with out the worry of stripping out the threads.

Here you can see the part installed and it worked perfectly. If your planning an engine rebuild or are tired of your oil leak, here is the solution.

The engine does not need to be pulled out of the car to replace it. Just drop the oil pan and then be careful to separate the gasket from other face of the old saddle bar.

To do the installation you will need:

  1. Oil pan gasket
  2. saddle bar gasket set (comes w/ 2 gaskets for the bottom and wooden wedges or the ends)
  3. Gasket sealer that you find at any autoparts store.